Close
XTension Discussion
Re: Wireless Extension of X10
You have to have a second machine at the remote location like a little iMac.. That is what I use. It will have to have the X10 interface to communicate locally.
Is the connection working well?
>From what I understand the Barionet will also do X10 over Ethernet.
On Aug 10, 2010, at 10:27 PM, Jack Stewart wrote:
> Hi Chuck,
> > OK! I have a Netgear access Point running with my KR2 > router across several hundred yards of space.
> > The issue which completely bqffles me is how do I get my > X10 X4X hooked up to the LAN so that it will operate some > remotely located devices?
> > In your comment below you sid ">I have found that hooking > up the WAP/WRT to X10 and recycling them once a week seems to > make things run better." I have no idea how to do this.
> > Thanks for yor help -- Jack
> > > On 9/10/09, Jack Stewart said ……
> >> Chuck, thanks for all of the good info. The distance I need to >> cover is a full 200 yards, not feet, and probably should be >> thought of as 500 yards for planning purposes. That is why I >> liked the idea of the dish antennae.
>> >> Jack
>> >> >> On 9/9/09, Chuck said ……
>> >>> If I remember you only want to go about 200 feet. You really >>> don't need any other antennas to make that happen. The ones >>> on the WAP's will go that distance without a problem.
>>> >>> You would have to get the WAP's on the walls closest to each >>> other and not have anymore than the outside wall in between.
>>> >>> If you find you need a to use an outdoor antenna you can add >>> that later. No sense in overbuilding it if you can get by >>> with just a simple bridge setup. The factory ones are 4-6db >>> (they have two different sizes) and radio shack sells some N >>> connector antenna that are 9db for $10 on sale and they do >>> get better signals.
>>> >>> I use Linksys. I have had good luck with them and that is all >>> I have in my systems.
>>> >>> If you can find a WAP54G and a WRT54G used this is the way to >>> go. Make sure they have the N type antenna connectors and the >>> antennas are removable. Some of the newer Linksys models do >>> not have removable antennas.
>>> >>> Set the WAP at the remote location and the WRT at the LAN end. >>> In the WAP it will be a menu for AP mode. Select wireless >>> repeater and then put in the MAC address of the WRT. That >>> should do it. From that point anything that can communicate >>> with Ethernet or WiFi will be able to send signals to your LAN.
>>> >>> If you have problems with the connection then you will have to >>> get at least one outdoor antenna. You can do a search of WiFI >>> antennas in the net and there is a lot of them out there. To >>> go that distance you don't need a big one. Omnidirectional >>> will work fine but if you get a parabolic a small one like >>> 10db would do the job. The only reason I got 24db was because >>> they were cheap on Craigslist. I could go 20 miles with my setup.
>>> >>> Adding an antenna requires that you turn off diversity and >>> pick either right or left antenna unless you get two antennas >>> for each node. This is done in the set up screen in the WAP/WRT.
>>> >>> You could try adding a cable to the current antenna system and >>> route that antenna outside. Or even mount the WAP/WRT outside >>> as long and it is very well protected against the weather. I >>> had a mini connection that runs two WAP's from my pump house >>> and one is outside under a special housing I made that is >>> open. I put fiberglass screen on the opening to keep the bugs >>> and birds out but it has survived 3 years of -20 to +110 and >>> rain and 12% humidity. It runs about 400 feet in an open >>> environment. (I have since run 400 feet of Ethernet and even >>> though it is over the 328 feet recommended it works fine. >>> There are more dropped packets but it is still faster and >>> more reliable than the WiFI setup)
>>> >>> You will have to make sure you get the right connections and >>> get some mastic ( >>> www.3m.com/Product/information/Scotch-Vinyl- >>> Mastic.html )for any outside connections to prevent water >>> from getting in. If you are in a lightening area an arrestor >>> is a must. My system took a hit about 4 years ago and only >>> took out one WAP even with an arrestor. My wind generator got >>> nailed also which was where the main strike was (and it >>> survived due to the grounding wire and the grounded pole it >>> was on).
>>> >>> N connectors are heavy duty and you have to be careful of the >>> cabling especially if it is the heavy outdoor cable. It can >>> cause damage to the WAP/WRT housing.
>>> >>> My system runs fine. I can get about 500k to 1MB most of the >>> time. On good days I can get 3MB. The wind seems to have the >>> most effect on my system and I attribute that to the slight >>> movement of the antennas. But I am also going 4 miles and you >>> will be going 200 feet.
>>> >>> I have found that hooking up the WAP/WRT to X10 and recycling >>> them once a week seems to make things run better.
>>> >>> If you are an experimenter like me you will have fun with >>> this. I found that it was a real challenge since I knew >>> nothing about radio pigtails and had to learn to make it >>> happen. If you know any shortwave or radio guys they can be a >>> big help getting the cabling and connetors.
>>> >>> Chuck
>>> >>> >>> On Sep 9, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Jack Stewart wrote:
>>> >>>> I will now add to my hopes for this wireless connection >>>> that, in a perfect world, I would like to assemble it so >>>> that it is sufficiently robust to be left unattended for >>>> long periods of time and won't be unduly subject to wind, >>>> snow, temperature and humidity extremes not to mention an >>>> ocassional visit from a mouse or even a bat. Therefore, I >>>> find rugged hardware and simplicity to be attractive.
>>>> >>>> I am leaning toward using something like the Linksys >>>> routers and parabolic antennas mentioned by Chuck and Tom >>>> because the final assembly sounds fairly durable and with >>>> fairly trouble-free electronics. Am I glossing over >>>> anything important here?
>>>> >>>> I would appreciate knowing what antennas you are using >>>> Chuck. Do they have a make or model on them? Are they >>>> available commercially or are they home brew? Aso, I do not >>>> understand; do the WAP54G's talk to each other or do they >>>> create two independent simplex connections?
>>>> >>>> My other issue is that I am only guessing at the meaning of >>>> the term "Bridge Mode" When I search the instructions for >>>> my Kyocera KR2 router "Bridge" is not mentioned so I am in >>>> the dark as to the true meaning.
>>>> >>>> I will probably ease in to this project using what I have >>>> at hand and then see what I need to make it really durable. >>>> I want to thank each of you who have contributed to my >>>> knowledge of how to solve this problem. I have gone from >>>> thinking it might not be possible to knowing two or three >>>> ways to solve the problem. This is a wonderful group!
>>>> >>>> I am going to have to be distracted from this project by >>>> some personal committments until next Monday so I want you >>>> to know that I have not just disappeared. I'm sure that >>>> there will be more questions but my understanding of the >>>> solution has sure come a long way in a couple of days >>>> thanks to you guys.
>>>> >>>> Thank you -- Jack
>>>> >>>> >>>> On 9/9/09, Jeffrey Lomicka said ……
>>>> >>>>> The routing is not a problem. You establish Internet Sharing in the
>>>>> sharing control panel, and allow the private >>>>> point-to-point network to
>>>>> share your uplink, and all the routing is done.
>>>>> >>>>> However, I wouldn't bother. I'd put the main building's >>>>> wireless hub on
>>>>> the lake-side of the house, and put the reflector on the >>>>> antenna in the
>>>>> remote building, so that the remote building was simply >>>>> part of the main
>>>>> building's network infrastructure. Once the remote >>>>> building is on the
>>>>> network, configure only a single port on the Mac in the >>>>> main building,
>>>>> and whatever you need on the remote site to connect your >>>>> remote serial
>>>>> ports.
>>>>> >>>>> If not using a computer in the remote buliding, then you >>>>> need a wireless
>>>>> hub of the variety that can connect as an endpoint rather >>>>> than an access
>>>>> point - less common than regular wireless hubs but they do exist.
>> If
>>>>> you think you want to go this route (no pun intended), I can look up
>>>>> some examples.
>>>>>> For not too much money you can get a Mac supported USB
>>>>>> 802.11.something dongle and directional antennas for the things are
>>>>>> not expensive off the shelf. Hawking makes several different models
>>>>>> all within a sane price range that I've used in the past. >>>>>> But now you
>>>>>> have another problem ;) If you add a second wireless adaptor to the
>>>>>> XTension machine then you also have the regular >>>>>> networking connection
>>>>>> to that machine out a cable modem or whatever. Now you've >>>>>> got both the
>>>>>> connection to the internet on a local network and a totally
>> separate
>>>>>> network that only contains the 802.11 bridge and ethernet/serial
>>>>>> adaptor and cm11 at the remote location.
>>>>>> >>>>>> Does anybody know how difficult it is to setup this routing
>> properly
>>>>>> on the Mac? I'm certain that it's possible to say that >>>>>> one network is
>>>>>> down one network adaptor and the other is down another and route
>>>>>> between them so that XTension can access both. But I >>>>>> haven't done this
>>>>>> sort of thing in a long time...
>>>>>> >>>>>> One also gets into a nightmare of tiny little adaptors and reverse
>>>>>> polarized connections and whatnot when connecting up all >>>>>> this stuff if
>>>>>> you're going to crack cases on airports.
>>>>>> >>>>>> You can definitely do this, but it's not going to be an >>>>>> off the shelf
>>>>>> kind of install ;)
>>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> James
>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> XTensionlist mailing list
>>>>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>>>>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> XTensionlist mailing list
>>>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>>>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
>>> >>> _______________________________________________
>>> XTensionlist mailing list
>>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
>> _______________________________________________
>> XTensionlist mailing list
>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
> > _______________________________________________
> XTensionlist mailing list
> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
_______________________________________________
XTensionlist mailing list
XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
Is the connection working well?
>From what I understand the Barionet will also do X10 over Ethernet.
On Aug 10, 2010, at 10:27 PM, Jack Stewart wrote:
> Hi Chuck,
> > OK! I have a Netgear access Point running with my KR2 > router across several hundred yards of space.
> > The issue which completely bqffles me is how do I get my > X10 X4X hooked up to the LAN so that it will operate some > remotely located devices?
> > In your comment below you sid ">I have found that hooking > up the WAP/WRT to X10 and recycling them once a week seems to > make things run better." I have no idea how to do this.
> > Thanks for yor help -- Jack
> > > On 9/10/09, Jack Stewart said ……
> >> Chuck, thanks for all of the good info. The distance I need to >> cover is a full 200 yards, not feet, and probably should be >> thought of as 500 yards for planning purposes. That is why I >> liked the idea of the dish antennae.
>> >> Jack
>> >> >> On 9/9/09, Chuck said ……
>> >>> If I remember you only want to go about 200 feet. You really >>> don't need any other antennas to make that happen. The ones >>> on the WAP's will go that distance without a problem.
>>> >>> You would have to get the WAP's on the walls closest to each >>> other and not have anymore than the outside wall in between.
>>> >>> If you find you need a to use an outdoor antenna you can add >>> that later. No sense in overbuilding it if you can get by >>> with just a simple bridge setup. The factory ones are 4-6db >>> (they have two different sizes) and radio shack sells some N >>> connector antenna that are 9db for $10 on sale and they do >>> get better signals.
>>> >>> I use Linksys. I have had good luck with them and that is all >>> I have in my systems.
>>> >>> If you can find a WAP54G and a WRT54G used this is the way to >>> go. Make sure they have the N type antenna connectors and the >>> antennas are removable. Some of the newer Linksys models do >>> not have removable antennas.
>>> >>> Set the WAP at the remote location and the WRT at the LAN end. >>> In the WAP it will be a menu for AP mode. Select wireless >>> repeater and then put in the MAC address of the WRT. That >>> should do it. From that point anything that can communicate >>> with Ethernet or WiFi will be able to send signals to your LAN.
>>> >>> If you have problems with the connection then you will have to >>> get at least one outdoor antenna. You can do a search of WiFI >>> antennas in the net and there is a lot of them out there. To >>> go that distance you don't need a big one. Omnidirectional >>> will work fine but if you get a parabolic a small one like >>> 10db would do the job. The only reason I got 24db was because >>> they were cheap on Craigslist. I could go 20 miles with my setup.
>>> >>> Adding an antenna requires that you turn off diversity and >>> pick either right or left antenna unless you get two antennas >>> for each node. This is done in the set up screen in the WAP/WRT.
>>> >>> You could try adding a cable to the current antenna system and >>> route that antenna outside. Or even mount the WAP/WRT outside >>> as long and it is very well protected against the weather. I >>> had a mini connection that runs two WAP's from my pump house >>> and one is outside under a special housing I made that is >>> open. I put fiberglass screen on the opening to keep the bugs >>> and birds out but it has survived 3 years of -20 to +110 and >>> rain and 12% humidity. It runs about 400 feet in an open >>> environment. (I have since run 400 feet of Ethernet and even >>> though it is over the 328 feet recommended it works fine. >>> There are more dropped packets but it is still faster and >>> more reliable than the WiFI setup)
>>> >>> You will have to make sure you get the right connections and >>> get some mastic ( >>> www.3m.com/Product/information/Scotch-Vinyl- >>> Mastic.html )for any outside connections to prevent water >>> from getting in. If you are in a lightening area an arrestor >>> is a must. My system took a hit about 4 years ago and only >>> took out one WAP even with an arrestor. My wind generator got >>> nailed also which was where the main strike was (and it >>> survived due to the grounding wire and the grounded pole it >>> was on).
>>> >>> N connectors are heavy duty and you have to be careful of the >>> cabling especially if it is the heavy outdoor cable. It can >>> cause damage to the WAP/WRT housing.
>>> >>> My system runs fine. I can get about 500k to 1MB most of the >>> time. On good days I can get 3MB. The wind seems to have the >>> most effect on my system and I attribute that to the slight >>> movement of the antennas. But I am also going 4 miles and you >>> will be going 200 feet.
>>> >>> I have found that hooking up the WAP/WRT to X10 and recycling >>> them once a week seems to make things run better.
>>> >>> If you are an experimenter like me you will have fun with >>> this. I found that it was a real challenge since I knew >>> nothing about radio pigtails and had to learn to make it >>> happen. If you know any shortwave or radio guys they can be a >>> big help getting the cabling and connetors.
>>> >>> Chuck
>>> >>> >>> On Sep 9, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Jack Stewart wrote:
>>> >>>> I will now add to my hopes for this wireless connection >>>> that, in a perfect world, I would like to assemble it so >>>> that it is sufficiently robust to be left unattended for >>>> long periods of time and won't be unduly subject to wind, >>>> snow, temperature and humidity extremes not to mention an >>>> ocassional visit from a mouse or even a bat. Therefore, I >>>> find rugged hardware and simplicity to be attractive.
>>>> >>>> I am leaning toward using something like the Linksys >>>> routers and parabolic antennas mentioned by Chuck and Tom >>>> because the final assembly sounds fairly durable and with >>>> fairly trouble-free electronics. Am I glossing over >>>> anything important here?
>>>> >>>> I would appreciate knowing what antennas you are using >>>> Chuck. Do they have a make or model on them? Are they >>>> available commercially or are they home brew? Aso, I do not >>>> understand; do the WAP54G's talk to each other or do they >>>> create two independent simplex connections?
>>>> >>>> My other issue is that I am only guessing at the meaning of >>>> the term "Bridge Mode" When I search the instructions for >>>> my Kyocera KR2 router "Bridge" is not mentioned so I am in >>>> the dark as to the true meaning.
>>>> >>>> I will probably ease in to this project using what I have >>>> at hand and then see what I need to make it really durable. >>>> I want to thank each of you who have contributed to my >>>> knowledge of how to solve this problem. I have gone from >>>> thinking it might not be possible to knowing two or three >>>> ways to solve the problem. This is a wonderful group!
>>>> >>>> I am going to have to be distracted from this project by >>>> some personal committments until next Monday so I want you >>>> to know that I have not just disappeared. I'm sure that >>>> there will be more questions but my understanding of the >>>> solution has sure come a long way in a couple of days >>>> thanks to you guys.
>>>> >>>> Thank you -- Jack
>>>> >>>> >>>> On 9/9/09, Jeffrey Lomicka said ……
>>>> >>>>> The routing is not a problem. You establish Internet Sharing in the
>>>>> sharing control panel, and allow the private >>>>> point-to-point network to
>>>>> share your uplink, and all the routing is done.
>>>>> >>>>> However, I wouldn't bother. I'd put the main building's >>>>> wireless hub on
>>>>> the lake-side of the house, and put the reflector on the >>>>> antenna in the
>>>>> remote building, so that the remote building was simply >>>>> part of the main
>>>>> building's network infrastructure. Once the remote >>>>> building is on the
>>>>> network, configure only a single port on the Mac in the >>>>> main building,
>>>>> and whatever you need on the remote site to connect your >>>>> remote serial
>>>>> ports.
>>>>> >>>>> If not using a computer in the remote buliding, then you >>>>> need a wireless
>>>>> hub of the variety that can connect as an endpoint rather >>>>> than an access
>>>>> point - less common than regular wireless hubs but they do exist.
>> If
>>>>> you think you want to go this route (no pun intended), I can look up
>>>>> some examples.
>>>>>> For not too much money you can get a Mac supported USB
>>>>>> 802.11.something dongle and directional antennas for the things are
>>>>>> not expensive off the shelf. Hawking makes several different models
>>>>>> all within a sane price range that I've used in the past. >>>>>> But now you
>>>>>> have another problem ;) If you add a second wireless adaptor to the
>>>>>> XTension machine then you also have the regular >>>>>> networking connection
>>>>>> to that machine out a cable modem or whatever. Now you've >>>>>> got both the
>>>>>> connection to the internet on a local network and a totally
>> separate
>>>>>> network that only contains the 802.11 bridge and ethernet/serial
>>>>>> adaptor and cm11 at the remote location.
>>>>>> >>>>>> Does anybody know how difficult it is to setup this routing
>> properly
>>>>>> on the Mac? I'm certain that it's possible to say that >>>>>> one network is
>>>>>> down one network adaptor and the other is down another and route
>>>>>> between them so that XTension can access both. But I >>>>>> haven't done this
>>>>>> sort of thing in a long time...
>>>>>> >>>>>> One also gets into a nightmare of tiny little adaptors and reverse
>>>>>> polarized connections and whatnot when connecting up all >>>>>> this stuff if
>>>>>> you're going to crack cases on airports.
>>>>>> >>>>>> You can definitely do this, but it's not going to be an >>>>>> off the shelf
>>>>>> kind of install ;)
>>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> James
>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> XTensionlist mailing list
>>>>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>>>>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> XTensionlist mailing list
>>>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>>>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
>>> >>> _______________________________________________
>>> XTensionlist mailing list
>>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
>> _______________________________________________
>> XTensionlist mailing list
>> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
>> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
> > _______________________________________________
> XTensionlist mailing list
> XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
> lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
_______________________________________________
XTensionlist mailing list
XTensionlist-AT-shed.com
lists.shed.com/mailman/listinfo/xtensionlist
Next message in thread
Thread
Re: Wireless Extension of X10 / Jack Stewart <jacks-AT-amug.org> / 11 Aug 2010
List Archives