From: Chuck <xtension4osx-AT-mac.com>
Date: 18 Mar 2010 05:04:08 UTC   (10:04:08 PM in author's locale)
To: xtensionlist-AT-shed.com

X10 and Smarthome have filters.

Not cheap but they do work.

Wall warts are the biggest offenders from what I can see. Also
computers and UPS's seem to be an issue. I filter my HA server and all
the wall warts that are attached to it. Things like my router,
Ethernet switches, NAS and a few other things.

Chuck

On Mar 17, 2010, at 7:55 PM, Emery & Laney Bills wrote:

> Chuck,
>
> What filter would you recommend?
>
> Emery
>
>
> On WednesdayMar 17, 2010 11:31:43 AM, at Wednesday3/17/10 11:31 AM,
> Chuck wrote:
>
>> One of the overlooked problems with X10 is lose or pushin
>> receptacles.
>>
>> Even the connections at the panel can be lose, just slightly, but
>> lose
>> enough to cause some minor arcing that can reduce the X10 signal.
>>
>> If the house is old then this becomes a real big issue. Also newer
>> homes with the push in receptacles can cause some arching.
>>
>> Arcing can cause noise in the line and adding a bridge will do little
>> to solving the problem.
>>
>> My home was built in 1940 and I replaced all the receptacles in the
>> whole house as I did our remodel (the house was a fixer upper). Now I
>> get good signals all the way out to the garage and past the sub
>> panel.
>>
>> At my vacation home I did basically the same thing and get signals
>> 400
>> feet to my pump house without problem.
>>
>> X10 is a very weak protocol and has all kinds of problems with
>> signals.
>>
>> Even with my wiring I still have filters. One filter with a surge
>> protector plugged into it will filter out a lot of devices so no need
>> to get a filter for every device.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>> On Mar 17, 2010, at 11:16 AM, Emery & Laney Bills wrote:
>>
>>> Once again, thank you for all the great information.
>>>
>>> I think I have a very unusually situation and I am wondering what
>>> the easiest and simplest solution might be.
>>>
>>> The house has a breaker box in the garage (basement of a 3 story
>>> house.) and the room just above it is wired with outlets that run
>>> down into that breaker panel. The rest of the house goes to a
>>> completely different breaker panel in the utility room at the back
>>> of the house.
>>>
>>> This must be why I cannot control the devices in that room above the
>>> garage.
>>>
>>> That said, is there a wireless solution that I should use to control
>>> the two lamps I cannot get to? I think I have seen devices at X10
>>> that screw into the lamp where the bulb goes and is a wireless
>>> device. I am using the CM15A which has an antenae and I would love
>>> to solve these two lamps with as much ease as is possible.
>>>
>>> Thanks again.
>>> Emery
>>>
>>>
>>> On TuesdayMar 16, 2010 5:44:53 AM, at Tuesday3/16/10 5:44 AM, Tom
>>> Yarmas wrote:
>>>
>>>> My pleasure Michael. The least I can do.
>>>>
>>>> Emery and Laney,
>>>>
>>>> Something else you can look for are so called "signal suckers" near
>>>> your X10
>>>> modules or the CM15. Often these are "wall wart" power supplies for
>>>> things
>>>> like cordless phones and other low voltage devices. The "wall
>>>> warts" are
>>>> actually power converts which provide DC current (9V or 12V power
>>>> converters). These devices will limit or suck the X10 signal and
>>>> not allow
>>>> it to get to the X10 modules. I guess they are really causing noise
>>>> to occur
>>>> on the line or at least causing a distortion in the X10 signal so
>>>> the module
>>>> will not see the command. If there are such devices near the
>>>> modules or CM15
>>>> then try to move them or unplug them and see if the signals get
>>>> through.
>>>>
>>>> The signal bridge I mention has to go on a separate breaker in the
>>>> breaker
>>>> panel. It will use a double pole double throw breaker which will be
>>>> on both
>>>> legs of the power and will allow the signal to cross the legs. I
>>>> have used
>>>> one like this -
>>>> www.smarthome.com/4815AC/X10-Signal-Bridge-HomePro-CP000/
>>>> p.aspx
>>>>
>>>> X10 makes one as well -
>>>> www.thex10shop.com/product/x10-x-10-pro-xpcp-phase-coupler-signal-bri
>>>> dge
>>>>
>>>> There is also one which just plugs in to the dryer outlet instead
>>>> of the
>>>> breaker panel in case you are not comfortable messing with high
>>>> voltage or
>>>> don't want to call an electrician -
>>>> www.smarthome.com/4816B2/SignaLinc-trade-Plug-In-Phase-Coupler/p.aspx
>>>>
>>>> -tom
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 3/16/10 3:05 AM, "michael" <michael-AT-shed.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> AND THANK YOU TOM !
>>>>> It's so nice to have such help.
>>>>> michael
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 16, 2010, at 12:15 AM, Tom Yarmas wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It should make sense once you better understand the house wiring.
>>>>>> Every
>>>>>> house has 220/240 volt power. But, most electrical devices use
>>>>>> 110/120 volts
>>>>>> (except large items like Oven, stove, dryer, etc). So your house
>>>>>> has 2 legs
>>>>>> of 110/120 volt in your breaker panel (fuse box). Every breaker
>>>>>> in the
>>>>>> breaker panel connects to one or the other leg of the power. In
>>>>>> fact, every
>>>>>> other breaker connects to the same leg - so the even breakers are
>>>>>> on one leg
>>>>>> and the odd breakers are on the other leg. The 220/240 Volt
>>>>>> breakers are on
>>>>>> both legs.
>>>>>
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