From: Tom Yarmas <tom-AT-yarmas.com>
Date: 17 Mar 2010 12:50:38 UTC   (03:50:38 PM in author's locale)
To: XTension <xtensionlist-AT-shed.com>

In your case then I would not bother with signal bridges and repeaters.

You do have a couple of options though.

X10 has wireless receivers that plug in to the outlets - TM751 for example.
These can receive signals from the Palm pad and other wireless "buttons" and
will control the lights directly. That however leaves Xtension out of the
picture so times events, scripts, etc do not apply.

Xtension can manage multiple devices though. Unfortunately you can have only
1 CM15 though since they do not have unique serial numbers to distinguish
themselves to Xtension.

So you can have the CM15 placed near the Mac and wire a CM11 via a USB
serial device to the room above the garage. The CM11 serial cable can be
extended via a CAT5 type cable to lengths of as much as 100-150ft if needed.

Then Xtension can see requests via the wireless in CM15 and send commands to
the CM11 to put on the power lines in the room over the garage.

I hope that makes sense. This page may help some in understanding multiple
devices - www.machomeautomation.com/doku.php/getting_started/history

-tom

On 3/17/10 2:16 PM, "Emery & Laney Bills" <info-AT-emeryemery.com> wrote:

> Once again, thank you for all the great information.
>
> I think I have a very unusually situation and I am wondering what the easiest
> and simplest solution might be.
>
> The house has a breaker box in the garage (basement of a 3 story house.) and
> the room just above it is wired with outlets that run down into that breaker
> panel. The rest of the house goes to a completely different breaker panel in
> the utility room at the back of the house.
>
> This must be why I cannot control the devices in that room above the garage.
>
> That said, is there a wireless solution that I should use to control the two
> lamps I cannot get to? I think I have seen devices at X10 that screw into the
> lamp where the bulb goes and is a wireless device. I am using the CM15A which
> has an antenae and I would love to solve these two lamps with as much ease as
> is possible.
>
> Thanks again.
> Emery
>
>
> On TuesdayMar 16, 2010 5:44:53 AM, at Tuesday3/16/10 5:44 AM, Tom Yarmas
> wrote:
>
>> My pleasure Michael. The least I can do.
>>
>> Emery and Laney,
>>
>> Something else you can look for are so called "signal suckers" near your X10
>> modules or the CM15. Often these are "wall wart" power supplies for things
>> like cordless phones and other low voltage devices. The "wall warts" are
>> actually power converts which provide DC current (9V or 12V power
>> converters). These devices will limit or suck the X10 signal and not allow
>> it to get to the X10 modules. I guess they are really causing noise to occur
>> on the line or at least causing a distortion in the X10 signal so the module
>> will not see the command. If there are such devices near the modules or CM15
>> then try to move them or unplug them and see if the signals get through.
>>
>> The signal bridge I mention has to go on a separate breaker in the breaker
>> panel. It will use a double pole double throw breaker which will be on both
>> legs of the power and will allow the signal to cross the legs. I have used
>> one like this -
>> www.smarthome.com/4815AC/X10-Signal-Bridge-HomePro-CP000/p.aspx
>>
>> X10 makes one as well -
>> www.thex10shop.com/product/x10-x-10-pro-xpcp-phase-coupler-signal-bri
>> dge
>>
>> There is also one which just plugs in to the dryer outlet instead of the
>> breaker panel in case you are not comfortable messing with high voltage or
>> don't want to call an electrician -
>> www.smarthome.com/4816B2/SignaLinc-trade-Plug-In-Phase-Coupler/p.aspx
>>
>> -tom
>>
>>
>> On 3/16/10 3:05 AM, "michael" <michael-AT-shed.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> AND THANK YOU TOM !
>>> It's so nice to have such help.
>>> michael
>>>
>>> On Mar 16, 2010, at 12:15 AM, Tom Yarmas wrote:
>>>
>>>> It should make sense once you better understand the house wiring. Every
>>>> house has 220/240 volt power. But, most electrical devices use 110/120
>>>> volts
>>>> (except large items like Oven, stove, dryer, etc). So your house has 2 legs
>>>> of 110/120 volt in your breaker panel (fuse box). Every breaker in the
>>>> breaker panel connects to one or the other leg of the power. In fact, every
>>>> other breaker connects to the same leg - so the even breakers are on one
>>>> leg
>>>> and the odd breakers are on the other leg. The 220/240 Volt breakers are on
>>>> both legs.
>>>
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