From: Chuck <xtension4osx-AT-mac.com>
Date: 17 Mar 2010 18:31:43 UTC   (11:31:43 AM in author's locale)
To: xtensionlist-AT-shed.com

One of the overlooked problems with X10 is lose or pushin receptacles.

Even the connections at the panel can be lose, just slightly, but lose
enough to cause some minor arcing that can reduce the X10 signal.

If the house is old then this becomes a real big issue. Also newer
homes with the push in receptacles can cause some arching.

Arcing can cause noise in the line and adding a bridge will do little
to solving the problem.

My home was built in 1940 and I replaced all the receptacles in the
whole house as I did our remodel (the house was a fixer upper). Now I
get good signals all the way out to the garage and past the sub panel.

At my vacation home I did basically the same thing and get signals 400
feet to my pump house without problem.

X10 is a very weak protocol and has all kinds of problems with signals.

Even with my wiring I still have filters. One filter with a surge
protector plugged into it will filter out a lot of devices so no need
to get a filter for every device.

Chuck

On Mar 17, 2010, at 11:16 AM, Emery & Laney Bills wrote:

> Once again, thank you for all the great information.
>
> I think I have a very unusually situation and I am wondering what
> the easiest and simplest solution might be.
>
> The house has a breaker box in the garage (basement of a 3 story
> house.) and the room just above it is wired with outlets that run
> down into that breaker panel. The rest of the house goes to a
> completely different breaker panel in the utility room at the back
> of the house.
>
> This must be why I cannot control the devices in that room above the
> garage.
>
> That said, is there a wireless solution that I should use to control
> the two lamps I cannot get to? I think I have seen devices at X10
> that screw into the lamp where the bulb goes and is a wireless
> device. I am using the CM15A which has an antenae and I would love
> to solve these two lamps with as much ease as is possible.
>
> Thanks again.
> Emery
>
>
> On TuesdayMar 16, 2010 5:44:53 AM, at Tuesday3/16/10 5:44 AM, Tom
> Yarmas wrote:
>
>> My pleasure Michael. The least I can do.
>>
>> Emery and Laney,
>>
>> Something else you can look for are so called "signal suckers" near
>> your X10
>> modules or the CM15. Often these are "wall wart" power supplies for
>> things
>> like cordless phones and other low voltage devices. The "wall
>> warts" are
>> actually power converts which provide DC current (9V or 12V power
>> converters). These devices will limit or suck the X10 signal and
>> not allow
>> it to get to the X10 modules. I guess they are really causing noise
>> to occur
>> on the line or at least causing a distortion in the X10 signal so
>> the module
>> will not see the command. If there are such devices near the
>> modules or CM15
>> then try to move them or unplug them and see if the signals get
>> through.
>>
>> The signal bridge I mention has to go on a separate breaker in the
>> breaker
>> panel. It will use a double pole double throw breaker which will be
>> on both
>> legs of the power and will allow the signal to cross the legs. I
>> have used
>> one like this -
>> www.smarthome.com/4815AC/X10-Signal-Bridge-HomePro-CP000/
>> p.aspx
>>
>> X10 makes one as well -
>> www.thex10shop.com/product/x10-x-10-pro-xpcp-phase-coupler-signal-bri
>> dge
>>
>> There is also one which just plugs in to the dryer outlet instead
>> of the
>> breaker panel in case you are not comfortable messing with high
>> voltage or
>> don't want to call an electrician -
>> www.smarthome.com/4816B2/SignaLinc-trade-Plug-In-Phase-Coupler/p.aspx
>>
>> -tom
>>
>>
>> On 3/16/10 3:05 AM, "michael" <michael-AT-shed.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> AND THANK YOU TOM !
>>> It's so nice to have such help.
>>> michael
>>>
>>> On Mar 16, 2010, at 12:15 AM, Tom Yarmas wrote:
>>>
>>>> It should make sense once you better understand the house wiring.
>>>> Every
>>>> house has 220/240 volt power. But, most electrical devices use
>>>> 110/120 volts
>>>> (except large items like Oven, stove, dryer, etc). So your house
>>>> has 2 legs
>>>> of 110/120 volt in your breaker panel (fuse box). Every breaker
>>>> in the
>>>> breaker panel connects to one or the other leg of the power. In
>>>> fact, every
>>>> other breaker connects to the same leg - so the even breakers are
>>>> on one leg
>>>> and the odd breakers are on the other leg. The 220/240 Volt
>>>> breakers are on
>>>> both legs.
>>>
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